Al Pastor
No. 01Achiote pork shaved straight off the trompo, charred pineapple, onion, cilantro.
Tacos con chispa.
Nixtamal pressed fresh every morning, a trompo that never stops turning, and a window that stays open long after everyone else has gone home.
The board fills, the comal never cooled, and the first tickets go up on the wall.
The sun drops behind Alvarado. Mateo strings the bulbs before the dinner rush lands.
Lights on, molcajetes out, the salsa bar is open. Keep going and pick your fire.
Four molcajetes, ground fresh every evening. Drag the chili, or tap a bowl, and the whole page starts to sweat with you.
Verde de tomatillo
Roasted tomatillo and serrano, bright and tangy. Safe for the whole table, kids approved.
That one comes with a waiver by the register. Mostly a joke. Mostly.
Pork shoulder sits two full days in achiote, guajillo, and pineapple juice, then gets stacked onto the spit by hand before the window opens. It turns beside an open flame until the edge caramelizes, and we shave it straight onto a tortilla that came off the press seconds earlier. The pineapple rides on top, where it belongs.
I started with one window, one comal, and my mother's recipe. Everything else, we built onto that.Rosa Elena Reyes, founder
Rosa Elena opened the first window on Alvarado Street in 1994, cooking off a single comal with recipes carried from Michoacan. Her son Mateo took over the trompo in 2009 and still trims it the way she taught him.
Her daughter Camila runs the front counter and presses every tortilla by hand before six each morning. Nothing here is built for a delivery app. The salsas are ground in small batches, and the window stays open late because the neighborhood asked it to.
Call the window and your order is hot when you walk up. No app, no middleman, no markup. Just the light on the corner and someone shouting your number.
1428 Alvarado Street, at the corner of 14th. Look for the papel picado.
The late window runs Friday and Saturday for whoever needs tacos after everyone else has closed.